Anastasio's Steakhouse Stands Out

Kevin Anastasio is a busy guy, running two restaurants, overseeing his family's limo service and demolition company, running back and forth from East Haven to North Haven to New Haven on any number of diverse errands. But judging from the carefully constructed dishes and focused flavors on display at Anastasio's Steakhouse, a new eatery located at the Silver Sands Beach and Tennis Club, it's clear that Kevin's latest enterprise is anything but an afterthought.

Housed in the former private dining club of the next-door resort, the one-month-old steakhouse is reaching out to the general public with a tremendous variety of meats, fish, and home-style Italian staples, all couched within a redesigned interior that effortlessly evokes the casual beauty of its seaside locale.

As one might expect, the culinary highlight of the restaurant lies in its succulent selection of poultry, veal, and steaks—one of which, a pan-seared NY strip tossed in sauteed mushrooms and caramelized onions, bears the owner's name.

Family touches, from Anastasio's zuppa di pesce, to Sunday's special Barbara's rigatoni, to the aforementioned Kevin's steak, are highlighted by flavor profiles designed to draw out the natural tastes of the fresh produce. An antipasto served with a variety of Italian meats, cheeses, and oil-cured vegetables is notable for its cleanliness on the palette. Never overwhelmed with garnishes or dressings, the distinct elements of the appetizer—from the perfectly-salted prosciutto to the richly textured mozzarella—are allowed to stand immaculately on their own.

Even in more complex dishes, such as a ravioli served in a vodka cream sauce with pancetta and peas, the quality of the ingredients consistently comes across. Avoiding the heaviness typically associated with similar dishes, the chefs carefully temper the richness of the sauce with the natural sweetness of the pasta's ricotta filling, creating a plate that draws you in with the boldness of its flavors, and keeps you coming back for more with the crispness of its components.

Currently indoors-only, Anastasio's will open its patio once warmer temperatures arrive. The thought of another expertly-prepared meal, a view of the beach, and a cool drink in the summertime might be all this reviewer needs to get him through the last of the cold weather.

Anastasio's Steakhouse is located at 640-656 Silver Sands Road, Building 1 in East Haven, CT.